340 Mopar Engine
The 340 Mopar Engine is still one of the most popular Mopar Engines from the ’60s and ’70s. Some Mopar Engines were designed for drag racing. They were heavy and bulky, but put-out high horsepower. This made them great for straight line races, but anything that involved curves they struggled. That’s were the quick-and-nimble 340 Mopar Engine found its calling.
The 340 Mopar Engine was developed in the 1960s and found its way to production by the end of 1967. It was close in cubic inches to the 318 Engine, but they differed in a whole lot more than just 22 cubic inches.
The 340 had: high performance heads, special carburetor and cam; New oil pump with a 90 degree adapter; 2.02 inch intake valves and 1.60 inch exhaust valves; Dual Time Chain with windage tray; high-rise dual plane intake.
Even with all of these performance features the top “horsepower rating” that any 340 Mopar Engine was 290 horsepower. This was the 340 Six Pack version debuted in the Dodge Challenger T/A and AAR ‘Cuda. Many believe that many Mopar Engines’ horsepower were underestimated to cut down the costs that buyers would have to pay for their insurance. So the actual horsepower of these 340 engines are most likely more than the rated 290 horsepower.
July 17th, 2007 at 5:29 pm
Actually, we pretty much know they underrated them. The Hemi was Dyno-tested and put out right over 500 horsepower, not 425.
July 28th, 2007 at 8:49 am
I was visiting the GM Tech Center as a student in 1970 and happened upon a dyno room with a Mopar 340 under test. All the technician could talk about was the 325 hp he was recording. I bought a Duster 340 not long after this event. PS I still have it!
July 30th, 2007 at 11:31 am
I have a 340 casting # 2780930-340-5
Vin #9B418482
I found it in a 79 power wagon took it out about 20 year ago and still have it.
What is it worth$
bajahd69@yahoo.com
August 7th, 2007 at 3:54 pm
Hi John i am looking to buy a 340. Do you know where I can find one?
August 27th, 2007 at 6:17 am
Here’s a bit more background history on the 340 for you. Chrysler had already gotten the engine designed & ready as a hi-po replacement for the 273 by 1966 for the 1967 model year, (I don’t know if they had sent the designs to the engine foundry yet), when Chevy stuffed the Corvette 327 in the little Nova SS.
Chrysler got hold of one of those SS Novas & were astonished at it’s torque & breathing capabilities. It put the new “hot” Mopar small block to shame. Since they didn’t have time to to a total redesign of the 340, they noticed the biggest advantage for the 327 were in the cylinder heads.
They copied the intake & exhaust port design of the Corvette heads, but due to the head bolt layout being different between the two engines, they had to modify the placement of the ports a bit. This turned out to their advantage, as the changes made for the 340 actualy made for even better breathing abilities than the Corvette 327, & a classic Mopar muscle engine was born.
September 6th, 2007 at 9:52 pm
Three weeks ago one of my 13 Grand kids , Came home from UTI in Rancho Cucamonga and asked me if I would help Him build a drag car. We walked out in the back yard and he chose a 1970, 340 Challenger. I don’t know much about the 340 engine so any tips will be very much appreciated. I am putting the baby on the Bottle, with a 750 Holly look alike Carb. What kind of RPM does this small Mopar turn? Any suggestions for Rear end Gears ? I have all the Fiber glass Fenders, Hood , Doors etc. on the way. (NO The parts I am taking off are not for sale. ) I would like to get this American Iron fast enough to get some respect from his Rice Burner buddies at the UTI event in Oct. I also need to know how to keep the rear end from wrapping up . I don’t see any traction devices for mopar in JEGS Catalog.
September 17th, 2007 at 8:59 am
Art try moparts.com they can help you
September 18th, 2007 at 4:24 pm
Thanks Tony Thats What I was looking for.
September 30th, 2007 at 9:25 pm
Art, You can’t beat the CalTracs bars, made by Calvert Racing in California, for traction on a mopar. Don’t try the slapper type traction bars on a mopar. They don’t work. The reason being the design of the leaf springs. You can reach Calvert Racing by calling 1-661-728-9600. They are really great to work with & will help ya get your Challenger to hook up. As far as the 340 goes, in stock form it’s good to about 6,000 rpm. However if you’re going to run nitrous you’re going to need to beef up the bottom end along with forged pistons, heavier rods, I would use Eagle H beam rods if it were me, a forged crank & a good set of heads and dependable head gaskets. To be honest, rather than nitrous I would recommend using a pair of turbos instead. It’s more expensive to build but would last longer and you would see better mileage if ya run it on the street. I can get awfully expensive filling those nitrous bottles after a while too. I’ve built several small & big block mopars over the years & would be glad to help with whatever info I can. In fact I’m building a 440 Challenger now myself. Feel free to contact at wolfyffs@yahoo.com if you would like or need advice. The last small block I built was over 500hp & built on a very tight budget. That was about 6yrs ago & it’s still going strong being driven everyday. I hope this helps. Again feel free to contact me if ya need help. Take care. Bob.
October 1st, 2007 at 12:31 pm
i just bought a 1971 PLymouth Duster with about 100k miles on. The Drive Train was just rebuilt and has under 1000 miles on it. What do you think its worth?? Body is in mint condition and int. is great
October 1st, 2007 at 12:34 pm
email me at whbballer48@yahoo.com thanks
October 5th, 2007 at 1:45 pm
I have a 340 with 360 J heads. The previous owner had the heads machined to remove much of the threads where the intake manifold bolts onto the heads. The need seems to be an offset of the pushrods to weird angles.
What was the reason for the offset and does anyone make a head that doesn’t require machining?
October 10th, 2007 at 9:55 pm
Hi, I’m hoping someone can help. I have a 52 dodge wayfarer with a 340/727 mopar powerplant in it. The conversion was done back in the 70’s and the car’s been sitting for the last 20 years in a garage waiting to be reborn. Just curious if the engine serial# could tell me what it came out of. Also wanted to know if its a 10 to 1 compression or was it detuned towards the end of 340 production. Block serial# is 2B298102 casting date is 1-16-1971. Any help would be appreciated.
October 31st, 2007 at 11:59 pm
I am looking for info on how much you can over size a 340 cylinder. I have salvaged a 340 that is in need of a complete overhaul. I measured the cylinders and they have already been bored .030”. Is it even worth it to or should I keep looking for another 340 to use? Any and all help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
November 3rd, 2007 at 10:51 pm
my dad and I have a 67 cuda with the good old 273. we are thinking of putting a 340 in it or modifing the 273 what do you suggest?
November 10th, 2007 at 6:25 pm
hi i have a mopar engine 340 casting #2780930-340-5 production date is 6-17-71 vin #2b126535 dose anybody know what kind of car it came out of it has a 340 6 barrel with the original AllU manifold & if it is an original try power motor
November 17th, 2007 at 3:54 pm
We have a 1970 Challenger that my husband had just started to restore (just started getting it apart and sanding the body) before he passed away. I would like to finish it to pass down to the kids someday. OK, and I would like to drive it too.
It’s an R/T. It’s partially in bare metal and there’s a good amount of rust. I’m trying to preserve it until I can afford to get it done. The VIN #’s don’t jive as one says it should be a 225 1 - 1 barrel 6 cyl. and one says it should be a 318 2-barrel. The air cleaner cover (?)says 340 4-barrel. It had a vinyl top but it was shot so we took it off (yes, I helped a bit). It’s very important to me to get it finished for him. It’s just a couple of his buddies, me, and the kids working on it as time/money allow so any advice is appreciated!
November 20th, 2007 at 11:59 pm
Hi, i bought a 88 dakota lowrider and it has a 3.9L V6 (239HP edition). I know Mopar built two engines in the 3.9L version, one pushes 235HP and the other pushes 239HP. I have a few aftermarket parts, edelbrock headers, a hyfire chip, dual air intakes with filters from K&N, a mallory ignition and a B&M shifter. Ive visited a few sites, talked to the dodge dealership in my town, and found out i can put a 5.2L (318) in this truck, i would like to get a bigger engine with a 4spd auto i have a few questions for anyone to help me with.
1) Would a 340 fit inside the engine compartment without doing any modifications?
2) If the 340 will fit, which engine would be better to put in, the 318 or the 340?
3) What kind of gears would i want to run with either a 318 or a 340?
4) Should i re-inforce my diff. or get an aftermarket one, if i put a bigger engine in?
ive done quite a bit of work to this truck and i am not sure if its worth putting a whole new set-up in this truck, as it sits at 286K kms. its dropped to the ground, about 6 inches of clearance. With the engine in it right now, with all the parts on it, it has a lot of torque, and some power, but it “clunks” everytime a gear shifts, i thought this was from the transmission, so i bought a new tranny, but it wasn’t that, because its still doing it, if anyone could give me some advice/help with these questions, that would be very much appreciated. this is my winter project, i am hoping to finish by summer.
you can contact me by email, at
dodgesporttrucks@hotmail.com
P.S - IF ANYBODY KNOWS WHERE I CAN FIND EURO-TAIL LIGHTS FOR THE 88-96 YRS FOR THE DAKOTA, I WOULD BE VERY HAPPY.
thanks a ton.
dodge all the way
November 22nd, 2007 at 2:53 pm
I don’t Know squat about Women. But I know a lot about being an old Man. I think Zenky was fortunate to have a Challenger for a project, and damn double lucky to have a Lady and Friends to finish his Dream. I used Zero Rust on My Challenger Top before I had the Vinyl replaced. I am sure there are a lot of other brands that are just as good. Just don’t have Zenky’s Vinyl top installed without the new rust inhibitor paint. Oh! I may be out to Lunch here. Who is ZENKY ??
November 28th, 2007 at 9:07 pm
Art, thanks for replying! You are not out to lunch…Tom, aka Zenky, is (never quite know how to say that) my husband. He was a wonderful guy and I think I was the lucky one.
I will definitely look into that Zero Rust. I’m not sure we’ll be putting vinyl back on as I hear it’s very expensive. Probably should though. Any thoughts? I doubt I’ll be able to really get it back to stock so I’m approaching it as a memorial type of thing. Although I’d like to get it as close as I can. It was burnt orange color but we’re thinking of painting it black - just not sure. I have ALOT to learn before I make the final decisions.
I’ve been looking up replacement parts and am hoping the quarter panels are intact enough that we can just patch up the bottom instead of replacing the whole thing. I suppose I’ll have to wait and see as that part is still in paint. I can’t wait to get going on it. I had looked forward to working on it with Tom (or basically just do what he told me to) but it’s still gonna be fun to work on with the kids and our friends.
Thanks again for replying. ANY advice is welcome and appreciated! You made my day!
November 29th, 2007 at 1:04 pm
I have a 68 340 with x-heads I’m looking to sell. What is this thing worth? The date code on the block is from December 1967.
November 30th, 2007 at 9:41 am
MRS. “Zenky” Black Vinyl over Black looks awsum on the Challenger. I had My Vinyl replaced 3 weeks ago. The bids ranged from $300 to $450. The highest bid was from a Shop that Shows his Work at the SEMA show, in Las Vegas. My Grandson was invited by the Staff at UTI, in Rancho Cucamonga to bring the Challenger to an Open House at the School. We had the top replaced for the Event. People really Love these cars. There are patch Panels for the Quarter Panels frequently on E BAY. They are in the $60. range plus Shipping. I may be wrong but it may be less costly to replace the top rather than get it in paint. And a lot less Work.
December 10th, 2007 at 9:12 am
looking for a 340 motor!!!
December 13th, 2007 at 3:22 pm
Hi,
I’ve got a 340 cu.in. and the heads on it are stamped 3418915 c and a.
I want to know if someone know where I can get specs. to rebuilt them and what kind of car carried them initially.
Thank’s from Québec.
December 28th, 2007 at 4:24 am
I have a ‘70 moulinrouge ‘cuda that i purchased in the early ninetees, trying to put all the pieces back and get the right engine on my k-frame. Have a 440 need a 340- can anyone help? i would pay finders fee..or give 440 {it”s a runner) thank’s, lou
December 30th, 2007 at 10:51 pm
I have a set of 340 X Heads. Are they worth anything?
December 31st, 2007 at 3:32 pm
Put those x heads on ebay, worth big $$$
December 31st, 2007 at 11:09 pm
how much horsepower did the 1971 360 V8 have?
January 1st, 2008 at 8:18 pm
The 340 is a strong dependable engine.my personal was reborn in 1989 after 10 years of searching for parts ,it still runs as strong as it did right know,it is in a f body plymouth the local mopar garage created in 1977,maybe the only plymouth gtx ever from that year,yes i still have it,check it out @jay lenos garage,,ps old mopars never die they just go faster
January 3rd, 2008 at 7:27 pm
yeah Im thinking of buying a 1966 coronet 440 with a 318 poly
i hear a lot of talk of poly’s having potential but not having much performance upgrades offered
i want to know if any parts for the LA small blocks can be interchanged with the “Big Block” 318 semi hemi
January 14th, 2008 at 7:05 pm
You can probably find some hi-po stuff for a 318poly “strong-block”; i hace seen valve
covers, headers and a 6 pack intake, but not much else. the intake that i did see used
stromberg 97’s, and those carbs are bout’ $500 apiece refurbished. Poly 318’s and LA 318
blocks havea few interchangable bottom end parts, but the top end cannot be transferred.
Just check out the spec.’s of the crank and rods, if you want a new cam though, you need your own formula, because the valve arrangements are splayed on the poly, and the pistons willhave more of a quench to accomodate the heads. i have seen some hot rodders weld up some twin-log intakes if you want something custom. Personally i love the 331 poly engines, the valve covers are loopy like a 409 or 348, but the 331 has the word “SPITFIRE” stamped into them, and you could probably get more 331 hemi parts to fit the poly because they are from the same era, i have one in a 56 windsor.
P.S. The website ALLPAR.COM would really help you out with interchangable parts on the “A” engines.
January 16th, 2008 at 3:06 pm
“It’s an R/T. It’s partially in bare metal and there’s a good amount of rust. I’m trying to preserve it until I can afford to get it done. The VIN #’s don’t jive as one says it should be a 225 1 - 1 barrel 6 cyl. and one says it should be a 318 2-barrel. The air cleaner cover (?)says 340 4-barrel.”
Hi Zenkysgrl, how are you. Sorry to hear about your husband.
As far as I know, for 1970, Dodge did not make any Challenger R/Ts with an engine smaller than a 383, as I have seen in brochures. They did start to make R/Ts with 340s in 1971 the model year. I’ve seen discussions about this, but with Mopars, never say never, as stuff could’ve been made when it doesn’t seem like it could. If it truly is an R/T then the VIN # will start with “JS”. A base model will start with “JH”, as well as deputy cars and the Challenger T/A cars.
Does this car have more than one VIN#? Places to check for a VIN# are dash tag, fender tag, cowl area, door sticker, and radiator support. Also, if it is a #s matching engine, the last 8 digits of the VIN will be on the engine pad on the passenger side just above the oil pan in the middle somewhere. Check the VIN for the 5th digit and that will be the engine code. A 340 is an H, 318=G, 383=L, 440=U, 440 Six Pack=V, 426 Hemi=R. Are there any build sheets/bill of sale/registration for the car? Dashs and doors can be changed out over time so I wonder if that’s where some of the multiple VINs are coming from.
The casting #s on the engine will be on the driver’s side, look under the cylinder head. Look at the last few #s and see if you see “340″ there to check if it is a 340.
Hope this helps!
January 30th, 2008 at 5:33 pm
I am looking for a 1970 340 engine or parts. Block#2780930, Heads#2531894, Intake#2531915-2. Give me a call at (850) 941-2080 or email me at fcadem@aol.com
February 18th, 2008 at 9:41 pm
Question: What length should my dipstick be for sure. I have a 318 poly and my dipstick must be the wrong length because it sure does not register at even six quarts. little help please. I just put a wieand 7503 intake and an elderbrock 1405 carb on it. I think the engine smiled. Thanks for your help.
February 21st, 2008 at 1:21 pm
Looking for a 1971 340 engine. Anybody that might be able to help me can email ip1209@yahoo.com
Thanks!
March 12th, 2008 at 2:16 pm
1973 challenger 340 1/4 mile race
March 21st, 2008 at 9:17 pm
I have about 25 340 blocks that I am selling on Ebay. come have a look
April 7th, 2008 at 12:09 am
I recently picked up a 1969 barracuda with a extremely tired 318 in it. I am thinking about repalaceing it with a 340 but can’t locate anything on line. Do you know where I can obtain information on purchasing a 340?
thanks,
Jack BudesA
April 17th, 2008 at 3:35 pm
were is a good place to buy a 340 for my roadrunner. thank you
April 21st, 2008 at 2:48 am
Hi guys i was wondering if anyone can tell me where i could find a 340 block any websites would be helpful. I have tried ebay there were a few i was just wondering if there was a any other places i could check. Thanks in advance
April 25th, 2008 at 4:09 pm
i have a 1969 340 block it is a bare block with no main caps or anything. It has a some rust but will still make someone a very nice block. I want $200 for it.
May 1st, 2008 at 1:24 pm
Can anyone tell me where I could find a 1967 (or prior to August, 1968) 340 block? Thank you.
May 7th, 2008 at 2:17 pm
340’s RULE!
May 19th, 2008 at 10:40 pm
want a 340 for my duster it has a slant 6 now
May 19th, 2008 at 10:41 pm
email at airmandavis@hotmail.com
May 22nd, 2008 at 6:41 pm
Hi i just found a 340 engine block #2780930-340-4. the heads are AAWJ 360 (3418815A) OR (3418915A) 7-10-69 IT IS COMPLETE BUT NO INTAKE I WILL TAKE THE PAN OFF TO LOOK INSIDE BUT THE OUTSIDE AS NO RUST THE MANIFOLDS AND POINTS DISTRIBUTER ARE THERE ALSO I CANT TURN IT OVER I DID NOT TRY VERY HARD I PUT FUEL IN THE CYLINDERS I WILL TRY LATER IT IS FOR SALE YOU CAN CALL 450 346 1269 ST JEAN SUR RICHELIEU QUE CANADA
May 25th, 2008 at 2:46 pm
can someone tell me if this is a good motor and what car it is from
May 25th, 2008 at 11:44 pm
I own a 71 340 in a 73 challenger.Its got a cam(unknown profile purpel grind?) intake,headers,850 holly double pumper,elederbrok single plane intake,unknown heas,8 3/4 355 differntial ,727 auto and duel flow master exhust. This one fun car to drive.This engine really cooks from 2000 to 6000 rpm at any time. Awsome engine.
June 8th, 2008 at 4:07 pm
Hi, I have a 1967 Dart GT which according to the Vin# should have had a 273 engine. The number from the engine is now 400673 318-8. Although not the original 273 what can you tell me about this 318? As well can a replacement 318 or 360 from the 70’s fit right in?
June 12th, 2008 at 6:44 pm
Hi, I bought a 72 Cuda 4 speed with original build sheet and was wondering how to tell if the motor is a numbers matching. Also if there is any place I could take it and get it verified. Thank you. bet90tmaxx@hotmail.com
June 14th, 2008 at 4:18 pm
I had a 69 Dodge Dart 340, and boy would she scream in those days. Canary Yellow, 4-speed, tach,racing stripes, fancy wheels, and Goodyear wide ovals. $2754.00 out the door.
June 16th, 2008 at 11:12 pm
Thanks for all the help! Did find the original build sheet on it. It’s a little chewed up but was a nice surprise. Finally got around to cleaning my husband’s work bench and thought it was a scrap piece of paper. I almost threw it away. I’m glad I looked at it first!
I’m looking for a dash pad for it (1970 Challenger) as well as the hood insert set for the dual scoops.
Thanks again for all the support and advice!
June 17th, 2008 at 9:27 pm
Zenkys Girl, I am pleased to see you are still working on the Challenger. I just Picked up my 340 Engine from the Shop Today. It took over 6 months to get it back. I checked out this Site to get Bob Reed’s E Mail address He is very sharp when it comes to Mopar. I saw you were posting , thats great. I covered my Dash with one of the Glue on Aftermarket dash Caps. I checked out a company in Van Nuys CA. That makes new Pads . I could not justify the cost. I have several of My cars that I have used the Caps on. If you take your time and follow directions The dash Looks nice. Best of Luck..
July 9th, 2008 at 10:50 pm
To answer some of your questions I have made the 273 to 340 conversion on a 65 Dart. We race the Dart in Mexico. The conversion is simple but there are three biggies to look out for. First of all the left side motor mount is different on the 273 vs the 318-340-360. Kits to convert the mounts are readily available for purchase. I bought some truck mounts and eliminated the rubber alltogether. Don’t forget the left side chain if you are running a warmed up motor. The 273 exhaust manifolds do not work on 318-340-360. Yes, they will bolt right on but no matter what we did we could not keep them from leaking. We used them on X and J heads. No good. I purchased some 340 exhaust manifolds and the problem was solved. The 273 engine is really a cruddy engine, yes, I had the solid lifter V4 GT engine, DOG. I cannot say we kept a single part of the thing. The crank has a different diameter so bolting a post 1965 transmission to it is not going to happen.
Here is what I know about the 340 build process. The stock engine is good but is not a racing engine. The first thing to work on are the heads. X-J 2.02 is the way to go. Second improvement is headers. If you own a 1966 or older A body forget about headers. Move on to an easier project. The 340 is easily stroked. Spend the extra 75 bucks and balance the rotating package. The stroker package costs between 1200-1700 bucks. My 340 became a real race engine when it was converted to a 416 balanced aluminun intake x heads and a 700 carb rejetted. On a scale of 1-10 the conversion is an easy 6. Good luck!
July 9th, 2008 at 10:58 pm
Another item! Sorry.
DON’T over cam. Rearend ratio and exhaust need to be considered. Pick the one you want and go down one. The big mistake first timers make building a good engine is over cam.
July 19th, 2008 at 11:58 am
Is there anyone out there that has a set of X HEADS for sell? If so please contact me at the following email address: cajunoutlaw@adelphia.net
July 30th, 2008 at 3:37 am
To Art Davidson,
Use a half-leaf helper spring on the front half of the leaf springs. This will stop the wheel hop and plant the rear tires. I reccommend 4.56 gears and a cam with .500 lift and around 300 degrees of total duration. You will need an MSD ignition, stay with the Champion N9Y plugs. DO NOT use traction bars!! You will split the rear end housing! Most racers in the ’70s used a pinion snubber, but my half leaf works better, and it doesn’t thump the floorboard when you get on it. barry425@yahoo.com
July 30th, 2008 at 3:47 am
To Tuck,
Have the block sonically tested for cylinder wall thickness. Go with the tester’s reccomendations, but I personally would not build a block with less than .250 wall thickness. When you have it bored, make sure that they center the boring bar so the walls will be an even thickness all thw way around. Also, have them hone it with a torque plate in place. barry425@yahoo.com
August 7th, 2008 at 2:54 pm
We are interested in the 340 engine., # 2780930. Could some one get in touch with us regarding the price, and the condition.
Thank you
Steven Benedetto
spoilt1@adelphia.net
August 10th, 2008 at 9:55 am
I have this engine #2780930 340-6; 7.11.1969. I purchased it from a family member in Virginia Beach, Va. back in 1993. The engine is in my garage in Charlotte, NC. Not sure about selling it at this point. The engine remaines in fairly good condition, it still has the original copper screw in freeze plugs and is in need of a complete rebuild. This engine has alot of centimental value as it has been in my family since 1975. I am the third family member to own it. Not sure about a price…. Lets talk, you may contact me at: 704.654.0767
August 24th, 2008 at 11:30 am
ive got a 94 dakota that i sucked water with and thiknk i broke a valve. I came upon a fella that has offered me two sets of 340 X heads with intake for a resonable price. will these heads interchange with the 318 mag.? any help would be greatly appriciated.
August 26th, 2008 at 1:50 am
I looking for my -70 340 Challenger original engine block VIN 0B234993. Car is from Pennsylvania (it’s in Finland now). It has VIN 9B319325 340 engine block now and it’s not original. My phone number is +358405617750. Thank you.
August 27th, 2008 at 5:17 pm
I have a 340 engine 2780930-340-2 complete minus only the carb and air cleaner, an 833 4 speed, 2881489 rear end (the most sought-after 8 3/4-inch version, and is called the “489″ case), drive shaft, pedals, steering column out of a 1972 340 Duster. Engine ran when pulled.
September 3rd, 2008 at 11:49 am
The 340 X heads will fit on all LA, pre Magnum engines (except the 273, the valves won’t clear the block). They are good heads. Good luck
September 4th, 2008 at 12:59 am
Dan:
Are you selling your 340 Engine? I´m looking for an engine for my 72 Challenger.
My E-mail gescandon@techmastermx.com
Thank you
Gilbert
September 6th, 2008 at 7:13 pm
I have a 340 in my 69 D-100 pick up. This is one killer 340! best of everything mech roller crane cam, W2 heads 11.5 to 1 TRW’s forged steel crank
cast # 5-7-70
2780930-340-6
Front of block #’s FW340P3269C265
It’s a waste in my truck if someone needs it to complete a 70 cuda. I want an old hemi for the truck.
September 6th, 2008 at 10:42 pm
I have to look at the numbers on the front of the block again with a light
September 12th, 2008 at 12:56 am
Frank:
How much are you asking for your 340?
Gilbert
gescandon@techmastermx.com
September 13th, 2008 at 10:20 am
I need a few questions answered if any body can help. I have just rebuilt a 1971 340 looks like push rods rubbed a bit on J heads and i have 4 threaded holes inside the valley of the intake
ANY HELP OUT THERE RICK
September 15th, 2008 at 10:54 am
help
September 20th, 2008 at 3:29 am
I LOOKING FOR 340 ENG. AND A 4 SPEED FOR MY 1971 ROAD RUNNER, P,S CALL ME 318.253 5027 CEL 2019339 ALL MAPOR HEARD
September 20th, 2008 at 3:36 am
I LOOKING FOR A 340ENG AND A 4SPEED TAN FOR MY 1971 ROAD RUNNER